Visiting Willamette Valley During COVID19

So many amazing vineyards and wineries in Willamette Valley,
where you can enjoy your tasting and still feel very safe

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Willamette Valley I am officially obsessed with you!! Being such a huge lover of Pinot Noir, I have had my eye on a visit here for awhile. While travel is certainly not high on anyone’s list right now – my husband and I had a reason (to be revealed in a few short paragraphs) to travel across the country in the middle of a global pandemic.

Since we were flying coast to coast and Willamette Valley has been on our list for years, it seemed like as good a time as ever to try to sneak in a few extra days of safe, social distancing while enjoying the great outdoors of beautiful vineyards.

We stayed at a GORGEOUS hotel and were connected with an amazing Wine Tour company to take us around for two days.

The Wine

Local Varietals

Believe it or not, Willamette (“Will-am-it”) Valley is home to more than 50 grape varietals, 500+ wineries and 700+ vineyards. Below are the big daddies of the region:

• Pinot Noir
• Pinot Gris
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Blanc

Another important note about the area is that Oregon’s wine labeling regulations, proposed by the industry and adopted by the Oregon Liquor Control Commission in 1977, continue to be the strictest wine labeling standards in the United States.

When exploring wines in the Willamette Valley, AVA’s are the best guide you can have when learning about the region. An AVA is an American Viticultural Area identification which may seem silly to break down so granular, but with Pinot Noir being such a finicky diva to grow, the slightest change in soil, elevation, etc. can drastically change the final outcome of the wine. The geography of the land literally effects the taste of the wine and why you may have liked or not liked a certain AVA.

The first six AVA’s in Willamette Valley were established in 2002: Chehalem Mountains, Dundee Hills, Eola-Amity Hills, McMinnville, Ribbon Ridge, and Yamhill-Carlton. New AVA on the block is the Van Duzer Corridor AVA established in 2019, and finally two more AVA’s were LITERALLY just approved in June 2020 (Tualatin Hills and Laurelwood District). They all produce different outcomes and you will find yourself favoring different AVA’s as you taste your way through.

After this visit I am absolutely 1000% considering furthering my Oregon wine studies with the Oregon Wine Expert Online Course via Napa Valley Wine Academy. <- clicking that link gets you a 5% discount too!!

Where To Stay

My husband and I stayed at the Atticus Hotel in McMinnville, nestled in the heart of Willamette Valley wine country. It seemed like the most centralized location to suit our needs. The concierge was very helpful as well when we first called to inquiry in offering to help with airport transpiration and restaurant reservations for dinner. Where this hotel is situated in town makes it SO easy to walk to multiple restaurants, coffee shops, stores and more. We also had trouble landing dinner reservations on our own (thanks #coivd capacity rules), but the Atticus got us three reservations easily.

The hotel itself feels brand new and we loved the decor. It was modern yet payed homage to the history of the area. The locals are also obsessed with walnuts and you can find them throughout the hotel – and for good reason. Did you know that Oregon is only behind Turkey in terms of global Walnut production? Apparently very low maintenance, it only needs dry farming aka no irrigation. If you have an extra 7 years or so to wait around for them to flourish, seems like a solid business opportunity!

We also looked at the The Allison Inn & Spa in Newburg. As it’s name suggests, it is more of a spa/resort that you would likely want to spend the majority of your time at, as opposed to exploring the town it is in. Heard good things for a relaxation/Spa focused trip at a later date.

Where To Eat

Harvest Fresh is about a 6 minute walk from the Atticus Hotel. It is a small grocer and deli that makes yummy breakfast and lunch eats. They had fresh bagels, cookies, bread and deli sandwiches. Coincidentally our first day of our Willamette Valley Wine Tour, our driver Alan also picked up food for us from this same spot.

Union Block super cute coffee shop with small bites also near the hotel. They had crazy specials like a Strawberry Matcha and Wildflower Latte with honey lavender. Those who are dairy adverse can be comforted as they had alternatives like oat, almond and hazelnut available for any of your caffeinated needs.

NW Food & Gifts this place is an absolute gem. James is super knowledgeable and they have a variety of local wines available to both purchase or drink on premise at cute tables outside. The store is stocked with goods form local artists and small business owners. We stocked up on coasters and new puppy items.

McMenamins Hotel Oregon a couple blocks down from the Atticus, this hotel and restaurant is a place worth checking out. We stopped only for some Rose on the roof our first night there. Great views from the top and the menu looked solid, but we didn’t try anything this time around.

La Rambla was our first night of dinner. Solid Peruvian restaurant that was walking distance from the Atticus. Great menu of Tapa’s. With both regional wines and some familiar Spanish wines on the menu (hello my love Albarino). We ended up splitting Pork Corquettas, Piquillo Peppers, Sauteed Garlic Chili Shrimp, Mixed Greens and the Mixed Board. It was just enough food (standard smaller Tapa sizing), but the real standout was the Pork Corquettas. Wish we had multiple orders of that!

Nick’s Italian Cafe is one that was constantly hyped up throughout our stay in WV. Pre COVID, the back room of this place was a common meeting point for winemakers of the area to collaborate and enjoy food and wine together. Being that we’re Italians from New York, our expectations were already high. All in all – solid place for the area. We split the meatballs which were yummy and my husband tried the minestrone soup. It was, different. Not bad, but different than what one would expect. My husband had the Crab Lasagna, this was pretty good and lived up to its hype. My tortelli, the pasta itself was very well done by the saucy was super oily from its butter sauce and pretty bland.

Bistro Maison was our final night. They had an extensive wine list but after two days jam-packed with tastings, we were ready for just cocktails. We split mussels a la creme de pernod to start (they had a variety of options) and for dinner we split the Confit de Canard – SUPER rich and decadent. Great menu, but I need to go back to fully experience it on a less wine filled stomach 🙂

Thistle Restaurant – honorable mention! Closed since the pandemic started but constantly mentioned as a local favorite. Hopefully it survives and we can experience it in the future.

Wine Touring

The concierge at the Atticus Hotel sent through a list of wine tour suggestions for the area. We reached out to a few of them, and landed on Alan Goodling with Insiders Wine Tour. While all the tours seemed to have the same process with a short survey to fill out, Alan had a bit more personality in his response and survey questions – along with a multi day discount. Since we were looking at two days, that is what sold us!

Alan was one of the best tour guides we’ve ever had. He knocked it out of the park with his Willamette Valley picks for us. We had such a fun two days with him and learned so much. Really appreciated his transparency and candor throughout our experience.

Reservations for tastings have been more common for most wineries and vineyards in Willamette Valley over the past couple of years, but even more so during the pandemic. Many places are open with social distancing and outdoor tastings, but with limited hours and capacity rules your safest best is working with a company like Insiders Wine Tour to ensure you have enough time to (safely) get from one to the next.

For the survey we filled out for Alan, we specifically asked to focus on small producers (women in particular) to intentionally stay away from the larger corporations out there. We wanted to find Willamette Valley wine that was delicious, limited production, and ones we could support in rougher times like these.

Now, onto the itinerary!

Hundred Suns

Our first Willamette Valley stop was with the amazing Renee Saint-Amour at Hundred Suns. Reene and her husband Grant Coulter started the label in 2015 and are now on their 6th vintage, and for now every single dollar they make goes right back into their business. Grant is also the Winemaker / Director of Vineyards at Flâneur.

They are a power team and originally Cali natives, their entire production is currently situated in a 2000 sq ft warehouse. Using Grant’s industry connections, they are able to source their grapes from all over. While the majority of their wines are single vineyard, they have one blend called Old Eight that they sell in Magnum format that sells out first every year. It is a blend of all the single vineyards they work with. One interesting note, they do not use any new wood in their aging process, so that really lets the terroir of each grape shine through.

Renee was so insightful and fun throughout our tasting process, I did not want our time together to end!

The Hundred Suns tasting consisted of:

• 2018 Bednarik Vineyard Pinot Noir – this was a big robust year in Oregon. It was reminiscent to me of Flowers Pinot Noir and not too far from the cooler climate PN’s of Sonoma. Sily texture and finish. One thing I love aout Hundred Suns is their level of detail on the back of their labels.

• 2018 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir – this is well known vineyard in the area that many producers source from, but Hundred Suns is the smallest producer in the entire roster that goes to him. It is also a pricier vineyard, most vineyards in the area have a price per ton contract while Shea has a price per acre so you are at risk not knowing the exact yield that you are paying for. This guy was a very deep red, licorice on the nose, coffee/coacoa on the palette with low tannins. Rene explained it was partially decluster/destemmed during their process.
• 2018 Breaker Vineyard Pinot Noir – this vineyard is newly owned by Hundred Suns and one of the first vintages they have made from it. It is located in the Eola-Amity AVA. Breaker is known as one of the oldest in the area (1972) and Rene said they had to pull all the vines out when they bought it since the original owner completely nuked the soil. This vintage was strong in blue/purple fruits, super high acid and we noted some volcanic soil. They will be replanting these vines again next year as they work through the process of reinvigorating the soil.
• 2017 Elephant Mountain Vineyard Grenache – 100% whole cluster aged in the Amphora pots. On this guy we picked up lots of black pepper and currants. It heavily reminded us of Gamay/Beaujolais.

Rene let us sample two very young wines before we wrapped up, both 2019s and very bold. One from The Big Cheese Vineyard and one from Sequitor Vineyard.

Fun fact, Rene hand dips each bottle into a ‘fry daddy’ to individually wax seal them. Not sure how much more small producer you can get than that!

We purchased two Bednarik and two Breaker bottles.

They are DTC and you can purchase your own bottles here: https://hundredsunswine.com/wines

Domaine Divio

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDh46C-pOF4/

Located in Ribbon Ridge, being 5 miles in size it is the smallest AVA in Oregon. Alan told us that this AVA is known for having deeper and bolder reds than most other AVA’s in Willamette Valley. Our tasting was led by Sarah and we sat outside at a beautiful picnic table overlooking the grounds. We were the only party outside (they had indoor options as well). We learned while all their wine is of course Oregon wine, it is crafted with Burgundy in mind.

The Domaine Divio tasting consisted of:

• 2019 Pinot Beurot – this Pinot Gris was lovely. Had crisp green apple on the nose and thick legs. Reminiscent of Sauternes. Could see this pairing very well with pesto, fig/apricot jams, basically a charcuterie board.
• 2018 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir – this was a blend of four different AVA’s. Very acidic and deep red coloring. Red fruits for sure and licorice, almost bitter.
• 2018 Humans Vineyard Pinot Noir – this vineyard is one of the oldest in the region (1971) and its origin literally was made from stolen vine clippings in a suitcase. Much softer on the nose than the first PN. Very dry moderate tannins, but almost sticky on the palette. Gritty smoke and high acidity again.
• 2018 Clos Gallia Pinot Noir – this was the backyard of the vineyard and was directly in our view during the tasting. Very deep in color and definitely the youngest tasting of the group (vineyard planted in 2014).
• 2018 Willamette Valley Chardonnay– This one was a beauty. New french oak aged 14 months. Could see this being amazing with Gorgonzola cheese. Flavors of roasted almonds, creme brulee on the nose with a sweet apricot taste. Lots of stone fruit, slate minerality and white pear.

We purchased a bottle of the Pinot Beurot and the Chardonnay.

They are DTC and you can purchase your own bottles here: https://domainedivio.com/

Atticus Vineyard

Now this place is major GOALS – Willamette Valley or anywhere else for that matter. Owned by the Orrego-Insley family and located in the Yamhill Carlton AVA. This AVA is known to have a darker core and more savory element throughout their wines. Ximena and her husband Guy are only producing about 500 cases a year. The property is stunning and the grounds immaculate. They are dry farmers, so no irrigation on the vines which helps the Pinot Noir really fight to shine through. Atticus also does not do full cluster, as they are trying to get more complexity and more stable building blocks into their wine production. They are also on the AVA board.

The Atticus tasting consisted of:

• 2017 Yamhill Carlton Pinot Noir – a blend of 60% Atticus Vineyard Pommard and 40% Dijon 667 and Dijon 777. Some great cola and baking spices on the nose with blueberries that say hello as you take your first sip.
• 2016 Yamhill Carlton Pinot Noir – a blend of 50% Atticus Vineyard Pommard and 50% Dijon 667 and Dijon 777. This wine also recieved 92 points on Wine Spectator. Beautiful sweet fragrance with some lovely pomegranates and cherries on the finish. Was a standout for us as well.
• 2017 Atticus Vineyard Pinot Noir – a blend of 60% Atticus Vineyard Pommard and 40% Dijon 667. Sweet spices, tobacco, dark fruits. A very elegant wine.
• 2016 Atticus Vineyard Pinot Noir – a blend of 80% Atticus Vineyard Dijon 667, 15% Dijon 777 and 5% Pommard. These were a treat to taste back to back Both elegant in their own way, but the 2017 had a bit more finesse in the complexity of the cinnamon, tea and cigar notes. While still retaining a lovely juiciness.

They are DTC and you can purchase your own bottles here: https://atticuswine.com/wines/

Flâneur

Our final stop of day one. We had also been looking forward to this since Hundred Suns where we learned they shared a winemaker. This was a winery situated about 20 minutes away from the Atticus hotel, so it was a easy option to end with for our first full day in Willamette Valley. We sat inside and there was two other parties also inside with us, but far enough away for a comfortable social distancing setting. I loved the look and feel of this spot. Very rustic, yet modern and they had a great little outdoor area as well that was not open yet.

The Flâneur tasting consisted of:

• Chardonnay La Belle Promenade 2018 – planted in 2014 and from the Chehalem Mountains AVA.
• Cuvee Constantin Pinot Noir 2017 – Williamette Valley AVA, purchased
• La Belle Promenande Pinot Noir 2017 – Chehalem Mountains AVA, purchased
• Flanerie Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017 – Ribbon Ridege AVA

They are DTC and you can purchase your own bottles here: https://shop.flaneurwines.com/wines

Dusky Goose

Day two started off at this stunning vineyard in the Dundee Hills AVA of Williamette Valley. Lynn Pennerash is the lead winemaker here and was also the first female winemaker in Oregon when she first hit the scene. Our tasting was led by Kelly out on the gorgeous terrace overlooking their vineyard.

The Dusky Goose tasting consisted of:

• 2016 Fenwood Vineyard Chardonnay – 100% Dijon 548 aged in neutral oak. This wine has bright lemon characteristics and not at all buttery/vanilla. You do get some light honeysuckle and some White burgundy vibes.
• 2015 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir – purchased
• 2015 Fenwood Vineyard Pinot Noir
• 2015 Rambouillet Vineyard, Dundee Hills Pinot Noir – purchased

They are DTC and you can purchase your own bottles here: http://duskygoose.com/the-wine/

Granville Wine Co

Another stunning vineyard on which the winemakers live and work, Granville is located in the Yola-Amity AVA of Willamette Valley. Ayla who led our tasting is the matriarch of this second generation wine family, the first being her father in law who they purchased the vineyard from. Ayla’s FIL was always a grape grower, but never a maker. Ayla and her husband Jackson have taken it upon themselves to figure it out on their own after both spending many years learning the trade first hand in vineyards both in Australia and state side.

The Granville tasting consisted of:

• 2018 Spirit Hill Chardonnay
• 2018 Murto Vineyard Pinot Noir – purchased
• 2018 Eichler Vineyard Pinot Noir – purchased
• 2018 Holstein Vineyard Pinot Noir – purchased
• 2018 Louie Reserve Pinot Noir

We were able to taste from the barrel as well. Always a cool comparison to the developed tasting wines!

They are DTC and you can purchase your own bottles here: https://store.granvillewines.com/Wines

Brooks Winery

Opened in 1998 and well known for both its Pinot Noir and Riesling, Brooks is one of the few vineyards also serving lunch on property in Willamette Valley. We were seated outside on the terrace overlooking the vineyards for a fantastic lunch. We opted to split their standard flight and a few bites to share.

Their fried brussel sprouts were some of the best brussel sprouts we have ever had. It had carrots and beets, with some sort of crazy slightly sweet sauce – so yummy! The Gewurztraminer was a PHENOMENAL pairing with the sprouts.

We also shared a charcuterie plate and the burrata and peach salad. Both of those were good as well. To finish we ordered the Rhubarb cheescake.

Brooks is a bio-dynamic vineyard and farming, they also buy some of their grapes from Crannal Vineyard and Musko Vineyard.

The Brooks tasting consisted of:

• 2017 Old Vine Pommard Pinot Noir
• 2016 Cahiers Pinot Noir
• 2019 Rose of Pinot Noir
• 2014 Riesling
• 2018 Riesling – won best Riesling in the US

2018 Oak Ride Gewurztraminer – really enjoyed this one. Especially with the Brussel Sprouts – the spice and flavor combination was amazing.

We purchased the 2018 Riesling and the Gewurztraminer. You can also grab their Pinot Noir from our affiliate partner Gary’s Wine.

They are DTC and you can purchase more of their bottles here: https://www.brookswine.com/shop/

J. L. Kiff

For our final Williamette Valley vineyard of the trip, we ended with the lovely Joel and Laurie Kiff (aka J.L.) who run the closest estate vineyard to McMinnville. They live, farm and produce wine on 9 acres of mostly Pinot Noir and a half acre of Pinot Gris. Their first vintage was in 2010, but they were sourcing grapes at that time. They finally planted on their own land and 2017 was the first vintage from their own property. They are located on the west side of the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, which has more volcanic soil.

Joel and Laurie immediately make you feel at home with their warmth and love of their craft. We had a lovely tasting sitting outside right next to the vines and learning more about their passion for what they do. We also were able to take a closer look at the vines in all their growing glory. All in all a wonderful experience.

The J.L. Kiff tasting consisted of:

• 2018 Chardonnay – super refreshing and easy to drink
• 2018 Rose of Pinot Noir – wow this color was spectacular!! We had to buy one
• 2013 Pinot Noir – its nickname is ‘Wild Thing’
• 2014 Pinot Noir – its nickname is ‘Strawberry Fields Forever’
• 2015 Pinot Noir – the hottest summer for Willamette Valley and the same year they stopped irrigation Causing the vines to really struggle to produce some pretty complex outcomes
• 2016 Pinot Noir – another very hot summer and the earliest harvest on record

They are DTC and you can purchase your own bottles here: https://www.jlkiffvineyard.com/wines/

Recap & Hot Tip

So our final consisted of the photo below. Fun fact, we flew Alaskan Airlines who will be your new best friend when visiting Willamette Valley (and 30 other cities on the west coast).

You are allowed to check one full case of wine per adult FOR FREE when you fly Alaskan Airlines. Clearly we took advantage. Alan our trusty tour guide was able to help us with the boxes and packing materials, and it was so easy to check the wines in at the Alaskan Airlines gate.

So…. WTF IS THE REAL REASON FOR THE TRIP??

We picked up a beautiful little bundle of fur at the airport before our flight home. Everyone please meet Moo the Pomsky who was very much worth traveling across the country to pick up. We love her dearly and you can follow her adventures both on MDW and on her very own little Instagram account 🙂

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDpcAztJksa/