Wine travel guide: The Douro Valley
The Douro Valley is your favorite band from middle school. Learnings from a recent trip abroad.
Remember in middle school when you loved that band that no one knew about? And then they blew up and you had to tell all your friends how you knew them before they were cool? That’s the Douro Valley in Portugal right now. Even though it’s been making wine for 1000s of years, thanks to major infrastructure investments in the region and a growing reputation for red and white table wines, it’s on the verge of a major breakout. And better yet, it’s also one of the most breathtaking wine regions in the world. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Douro Valley’s terraced vineyards run the cross of the winding Douro River, producing a wildly unique terroir that makes the wines unlike any others you’ve tried.
The wine
When you hear Douro, you may be savvy enough to be thinking about Port wine–and you are spot on. However, did you know that the Douro Valley also produces some of the best table wines in the world? Reds, whites, even rosés? These are some of the most interesting and unique wines I’ve tried – ranging from light and refreshing whites to intense, velvety, complex reds.
There are literally 122 different grape varietals grown in just the Douro Valley. Not 12. 122. And they’re not growing your typical Cabs and Chardonnays. All the varietals are local – from Toriga Nacional and Toriga Franca to the spicy Tinto Rodiz. Most interestingly, all the wines from the Douro are blends. Different grapes bring different qualities to the party, which means you’re going to find something unique with each wine you try from here.
A few cheaters on what qualities you can expect in the wine from different areas of the Douro:
- South Bank: More elegant
- North Bank: More intense
- Closer to the river: More intense
- Higher altitude: More refreshing
- The highest quality wines typically come from Cima Corgo (upper Corgo)
Where to stay
The Douro Valley is broken down into three major subregions from west to east: the Baixo Corgo, Cima Corgo, and Douro Superior. Baixo Corgo is the rainiest and coolest of the three as it is closest to shore. Douro Superior on the reverse is the hottest and driest – the locals actually call the summer…hell. What that means is you’re likely to get much richer, bolder, jammier wines from this subregion. We only got a chance to visit one of the three, but recommend checking ’em all out if you have time!
Cima Corgo is the center of the action for wine lovers. This is where all of the port production happens and where you can find most of the major exporters. There are also hundreds of small, family quintas where you can pop in and try some wine and olive oil. I’d recommend staying in this area, close to the town of Pinhão, Vila Real, or Peso da Régua – we stayed near Vila Real. Know that there isn’t really a lot of nightlife out in the Douro, nor do you want to be driving at night as the roads. Plan to cozy up and soak up the views.
Where we crashed: Quinta de Sta. Marinha
Honestly, this was hands down the best Airbnb experience I’ve ever had. Ever. It has one of the most stunning views of the Douro river, overlooking a bunch of terraced vineyards, and perfect for sunrise in the morning. The property itself has an infinity pool overlooking the view, its own olive groves and vineyards you can wander, and accommodations that are super private and clean. What’s the best about staying here though, is the absolute joy that is your host: Cidália. She’ll cook you amazing Portuguese meals, spend time with you playing scrabble and chatting about life, and share advice about following your dreams. We can’t wait to visit her again someday.
What to do
- Visit Porto: Spend some time in Porto before making your way out to the Douro Valley. Vila Nova de Gaia, right across the river from Porto, is home to all of the major Port cellars. Back in the day, wine was shipped from the hot Douro Valley down the river to Porto, where it was then stored and aged in the cooler cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia. You can meander the streets and stumble into cellar after cellar for tastings.
- Drive the N222: Named one of the most beautiful roads in the world, the N222 from Porto to the Douro is a windy, magical, and steep drive that is an absolute must do. Have your camera ready.
- Go for a hike: There are literally endless viewpoints throughout the Douro. Find a hiking trail or just throw on your sneakers and wander your way through a vineyard to its highest point.
- Check out the Douro International Natural Park: All you need to do is look at the pictures for this one.
- Take a boat tour: We didn’t do this, but there are a ton of river cruises along the Douro Valley. You can even take a tour on one of the old school Rabella boats that was used back in the day to transport the wine to Porto before it headed to England.
And obviously drink wine.
Wine touring
When we visited, we set up a tour with Bruno, the owner of Douro Vintage Tours. Bruno is a gem. He grew up in the Douro and is incredibly knowledgeable about pretty much everything having to do with the area – the wine, its history, where to eat for a great, authentic Portuguese lunch. And, he’s got a suite of classic cars that he can use to drive you around the windy roads of the Douro while you spend the day in the sunshine, sipping on great wine.
With Bruno, we hit a mix of big producers and small, family owned quintas. A few of my favorites:
- Quinta do Bomfim: Located right in Pinhao, Quinta do Bomfim has a beautiful, sunkissed tasting room and outdoor terrace, right on the water. They’re the home to Dow’s Port, and you can taste both great ports and table wines here.
- D’Origem: This spot, based in Casal de Loivos, produces olive oil, wines, and honey. They have a great little olive oil “museum” where you can see how they used to produce it by hand and with old school machinery. It has a small, familial, and warm feel, with of course, more great views of the river.
- Quinta da Pacheca: This is one of the big ones, and actually a winery that you can sleep right in wine barrel shaped rooms amidst the vineyards. Pacheca had some of my favorite Douro wines, in addition to great Port.
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The next time your favorite middle school band comes on the radio, remember the Douro. This is the perfect place to put on the bucket list for your next wine adventure.
